Leh Ladakh Archery &
Polo
Polo is traditional to the western Himalaya, especially to Baltistan and Gilgit.
It was probably introduced into Ladakh in the mid-17th century by King Sengge
Namgyal, whose mother was a Balti princess. The game played here differs in
many respects from the international game, which indeed, is adapted from what
British travellers saw in the western Himalaya and Manipur in the 19th century.
Here, each team consists of six players,a nd the game lasts for an hour with
a ten minute break. Altitude notwithstanding, the hardy local ponies - the best
of which come from Zanskar- scarcely seem to suffer, though play can be fast
and furious. Each goal is greeted by a bust of music from surna and daman ;
and the players often show extraordinary skill. For example, when starting play
after a goal the scorer gallops up to midfield holding ball and mallet in the
right hand, and throws the ball, hitting it in the same movement towards the
opposite goal.
Archery festivals are held during the summer months, with a lot of fun and fanfare.
They are competitive events, the surrounding villages all sending teams, and
the shooting takes place according to strict etiquette, to the accompaniment
of the music of surna and daman (oboe and drum). As important as the archery
are the interludes of dancing and other entertainment. Chang, the local barley
beer, flows freely, but there is rarely any rowdiness. The crowd attend in their
Sunday best, the men invariable in traditional dress, and the women wearing
their brightest brocade mantles and their heaviest jewellery. Archery may be
the pretext for the gathering, but the party's thing.
Unlike the international game, Polo in Ladakh is not exclusively for the rich.
Traditionally, almost every village had its polo-ground, and even today it is
played with verve in many places besides Leh, especially in Drass and Chushot,
a big village close to Leh. In Leh, it has been partly institutionalized with
regular tournaments and occasional exhibition matches being played on the polo-ground
in the shadow of the palace. The local crowd takes a keen interest, especially
in those matches in which a civilian team takes on the Army. Altogether, polo
adds a unique kind of colour and excitement to the summer in Leh.
